Temple of the Sun on the Equator

Handstand on the Equator

Have you ever stepped into a place and felt the vibration of the energy there? El Templo del Sol, right on the equator (Mitad del Mundo), is one of those super potent places.

We arrived in Quito, Ecuador’s capital, on June 3^rd. After a few days, the 3000m altitude wasn’t too bad. It was the pollution that was tough. Walking around the city there were many beautiful things, yet I’d have to cover my face to breathe with all the black smoke from buses and trucks.

We ventured out, about an hour on the bus, to the equator. This may be one of the ultimate locations to contemplate equanimity, at the halfway point of the world. It’s also a fun place to play with balance (they say gravity has less effect here) so, of course, I had to do a handstand.

Temple entrance in the cloud.

After straddling the line that signifies the split between Northern and Southern hemispheres of the planet, we went up the side of a volcano to a Temple of the Sun.

El Templo del Sol is unique from many ancient sites in that it is still being used for ceremony. Our guide was a kind young woman named Maritza; who, like most of the indigenous people here, is very petite and beautiful.

Though my Spanish is still pretty elementary, I could understand much of what Maritza said. Only twice a year, at the equinoxes (generally about March 21^st and September 21^st), the sun shines directly down into a huge cavernous womb-like container in the floor. While the sun beams into this space, its energies are collected and the people present at this sacred time bring the high vibration light into themselves.

Tai Tai Inti

There is also an 8 pointed star on the floor, and the sun will be at certain parts of this star during different times of the year. This is their solar calendar.

Casey and I could feel the pulsation of the sacred space. We went into a room just off the main chamber. Maritza put essential oil on our hands, had us breathe deeply, and then close our eyes for meditation with native music playing in the background.

It was so easy to slip into meditation there. The energies of the place have been programmed after so many generations of sacred use in such a way that tranquil harmony is a natural response. We sat for many minutes, content and grateful to be held in such a special moment.

Where the sun beams down...

Oh how I would love to be at that temple during the Spring Equinox. The people dance, pounding their feet on the ground, waking up Pacha Mama (Mother Earth) and raising the vibrations of all with their ritual. They use drums which signify the heart beat of Pacha Mama. They value the light of the sun and moon (Tai Tai Inti is the ancient name of the sun, and Mama Quilla the name of the moon). There is such balance in this appreciation for the natural cycles of life.

This experience in El Templo del Sol is contrasted sharply with the utter lack of environmental awareness most of Ecuador exhibits. When the Spaniards came and conquered with brutality (here and so many other places), much of the indigenous traditions and respect was lost.

Most of Ecuador functions now with a narrow perspective, cutting down trees (something like 75% of their forests are gone), polluting their rivers and air, and basically living with complete disregard for the consequences of these actions.

The sad part is that they simply have no concept of why this is so harmful. The education and awareness is non-existent, with some exceptions of indigenous fighting to protect the rainforest, or gringos (that’s us foreigners) going completely against the grain to create sanctuaries to protect animals and land.

This extreme contrast of beautiful natural tradition and heartbreaking environmental damage is yet another opportunity to deepen the practice of yoga. It motivates a strong need to maintain a broad perspective. If I narrow my focus to the garbage and waste swirling in the river, then I dull my delight of the pristine waterfall coming in from above. If I forget that every single person is a beautiful expression of divinity, it is easy to fall into the dark hole of blame (which is really not a nice place to be).

We are all faced with contrasts of happiness and suffering, that which we consider detrimental and that which we consider sacred. Yet what really matters is how we respond. If you can stay bright and loving, even in the face of utter darkness, you truly make a difference in so many ways.

Climbing to the Highest Heights

Okay. Nowhere else would they let you do this. North America, Europe – there’s just no way. Apparently liability is not a concern in Ecuador.

What am I talking about? Well, Casey and I ventured through the beautiful people, the smog, the ugly concrete buildings and old colonial masterpieces of architecture to Quito’s Old Town. Here we found a giant Gothic Cathedral called Basilica del Voto National (building started in 1926 – think gothic style, but made of rebar and concrete).

Entrance to the stunningly arched main part of the church is free, and you can see the stained glass high above from there, but for the brave of heart, two dollars gets you entrance to the towers.

After climbing up a few flights of stairs, we came out level with the realm of stained glass. I remember looking down into the main floor of the church and thinking it was a long way down.

But then we climbed further up. And up. And up. We’d pause briefly to look over whatever balcony or window was on each level, then go up again.

Up and up, further than I thought the towers reached into the sky. And there we found a spiral staircase, narrow, metal, and somewhat sketchy looking. The natural anxiety that comes with the instinct of self preservation kicked in as we climbed it.

It just kept going up! Maybe 3 levels of spiral staircase later, we found ourselves behind the giant faces of the clock that seemed so small from below.

Unbelievably, there was a ladder in this room. Adreniline and a strange lightness were my companions as I climbed it, only to find another ladder. And then another. It was as if every time I thought this must surely be the top, there was more up, up, up!

Yet there was actually an end to it, and this made every other thing, even the vertical ladders, seem tame. I was also aware of the ironic instinct that came through my mouth in the form of “Oh my God” over and over again. Some sort of prayer or desperate mantra to calm my fears.

Casey and I found ourselves at the very top of the towers, walking on metal crossbars and thick wire grate. At each of the four corners there was an opening. Holding on to the rebar in the ceiling for dear life, I made my way over and ducked down to go through.

I emerged out onto a small concrete platform, right at the edge of the tower, with nothing between me and the open, gravity enforced air. Well, not nothing. I had my brave companion, Casey.

After a while sitting up there with the gargoils, feeling somewhat like a rather large, bundled up pigeon, it was time to descend. The funny thing about the way down was that the ladders that were so scary on the way up were nothing compared to the view from the top.

So the moral of this story, or what I got from it anyway, is that each time you challenge yourself to push the limit of your comfort zone, your capacity expands. What was once frightening is now totally doable, and a bird’s eye view can do wonders for your perspective on life.

Okay. Nowhere else would they let you do this. North America, Europe –

Wonder of Wonders... Gotta love stained glass.

there’s just no way. Apparently liability is not a concern in Ecuador.

What am I talking about? Well, Casey and I ventured through the beautiful people, the smog, the ugly concrete buildings and old colonial masterpieces of architecture to Quito’s Old Town. Here we found a giant Gothic Cathedral called Basilica del Voto National (building started in 1926 – think gothic style, but made of rebar and concrete).

Entrance to the stunningly arched main part of the church is free, and you can see the stained glass high above from there, but for the brave of heart, two dollars gets you entrance to the towers.

After climbing up a few flights of stairs, we came out level with the realm of stained glass. I remember looking down into the main floor of the church and thinking it was a long way down.

Wow!

But then we climbed further up. And up. And up. We’d pause briefly to look over whatever balcony or window was on each level, then go up again.

Up and up, further than I thought the towers reached into the sky. And there we found a spiral staircase, narrow, metal, and somewhat sketchy looking. The natural anxiety that comes with the instinct of self preservation kicked in as we climbed it.

It just kept going up! Maybe 3 levels of spiral staircase later, we found ourselves behind the giant faces of the clock that seemed so small from below.

Unbelievably, there was a ladder in this room. Adreniline and a strange lightness were my companions as I climbed it, only to find another ladder. And then another. It was as if every time I thought this must surely be the top, there was more up, up, up!

Look at how tiny the buildings are!

Yet there was actually an end to it, and this made every other thing, even the vertical ladders, seem tame. I was also aware of the ironic instinct that came through my mouth in the form of “Oh my God” over and over again. Some sort of prayer or desperate mantra to calm my fears.

Casey and I found ourselves at the very top of the towers, walking on metal crossbars and thick wire grate. At each of the four corners there was an opening. Holding on to the rebar in the ceiling for dear life, I made my way over and ducked down to go through.

High up in the holy tower...

I emerged out onto a small concrete platform, right at the edge of the tower, with nothing between me and the open, gravity enforced air. Well, not nothing. I had my brave companion, Casey.

After a while sitting up there with the gargoils, feeling somewhat like a rather large, bundled up pigeon, it was time to descend. The funny thing about the way down was that the ladders that were so scary on the way up were nothing compared to the view from the top.

So the moral of this story, or what I got from it anyway, is that each time you challenge yourself to push the limit of your comfort zone, your capacity expands. What was once frightening is now totally doable, and a bird’s eye view can do wonders for your perspective on life.

Paradise Found

Mid-morning on my birthday, May 28, we stepped into the flow of serindipity and decided to leave Nicaragua early… Like, the next day.

Four bus rides, a long yet somehow casual border crossing, two taxis, and catching a ride by sticking my thumb out for a ride up a dirt road, and we’re in paradise. Welcome to Costa Rica.

The last two days I’ve been up before 5:30. The first day at 4:30am. Just wanted to rise with the singing of the birds to watch the clouds float around the volcano and the sun illuminate the endless greens of the hillsides. Today Casey and I bathed in a pristine river and had the company of a bright blue butterfly the size of your hand and a bird with a gorgeous yellow tail.

The first day we watched toucans and parrots perch and fly around the place where we’re staying. Last night the volcano gave us a show; red hot lava flowing down its side.

We found a place called Essence Arenal Backpacker’s and Travler’s Inn. Super laid back people and a humble but very comfortable place with stunning views. There are jungle paths right on the property, and all kinds of opportunities nearby, including hot springs.

Though we only spent a few days there, it was such a treat and welcome respite from the heat of Nicaragua.

I think my favorite thing (other than the views and amazing nature) was drinking spring water right out of the tap. Nothing beats nature when you can get pure goodness from the source!

Sweat and Gratitude

It’s hot here. We picked the hottest, driest time of the year to come to Nicaragua – right at the end of their dry season.

Shri filled expression of YES!

The good news is that the rains have finally come, with the soothing sound and fresh smell in the morning air. So far it has only rained two nights, and stayed dry during the day.

The heat, though it motivates many quick cold showers, also means sweat. And the detox that comes with it.

Some mornings when I do my yoga practice, I have to wipe the salt out of my eyes when I go upside down. And I have to leave my mat out to dry off after savasana. It’s all quite funny, really, and a good chance to cleanse on many levels.

Every night I awake from sleep in the early morning darkness; the only time this town is quiet (3:30 am or so) .

It is then that I can hear the waves in the distance, feel the wind whisper secrets of wisdom, and settle back into sleep with profound gratitude and connection to Grace.

I love the ocean...

There is magic in every moment.

Not just the ones where I’m swimming in crystal clear water, doing yoga on the beach, looking out the window at the mystery of morning stars, or cuddling with the kitty.

There is magic in the singing and laughter of the women who run the little restaurant we frequent in the market.

There is the ultimate satisfaction of the simplicity and goodness of the beans and rice I eat every day. (Somehow my body thrives off this simple diet – I absolutely LOVE beans and rice.)

There is something comforting about sending silent blessings to the man who walks the streets in his dirty clothes, wearing mismatched shoes (when he wears shoes) singing to himself. We have an energetic relationship, he and I. I send him love, and on some level I am sure he receives it. I wonder what his perspective is like, and what made him choose that particular experience this time around…

Casey admiring the work of the Great Painter of Sky

And there is the blessing of each sunrise and sunset. The colors the Great Artist paints in the sky and reflects in the waters.

There are the spectacular lightening shows that look like there’s a disco in the sky, with a strobe light on random, and angels hiding behind each cloud with supernatural flashlights sending each other messages.

These celebrations of light happen frequently, and go on for hours!

Throughout it all, the warmth holds me, and my heart responds to each experience and opportunity to be in beauty and grow with a giant “YES!” and a humble bow of gratitude.

so very grateful

 

May each of us, in every moment, find the magic, sweat out that which no longer serves, and become ever more thankful of that which is.

And the award goes to…

5:15am – BOOM! <echo> BOOM! <echo>

Cannonfire? At this hour? Are pirates coming to pillage the little town’s supply of surfboards? What’s going on?

When the BOOM! doesn’t stop, Casey and I get up to wonder why. At this point we’ve ruled out gunfire and cannons as there isn’t any screaming or other sounds of mass destruction, so we figure it’s okay to look out the window.

Just behind our apartment, in the park that sits in front of the town’s humble cathedral, someone is lighting off fireworks. Not the kind that make pretty designs in the sky, but the kind designed to simply make as much noise as possible.

View from our roof

5:18 am – The town’s brass band starts playing. There are maybe 6 of them, including drummers, and they play almost in unison and pretty much on key. They’re in front of the cathedral with the guys who are still lighting off BOOM! devices.

Now, there are lots of things I like about San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, which is where we are. It’s a nice surf and fishing village, so I get to swim in the ocean every day. It’s pretty, and for the most part the people are friendly.

However, this place has already won the “Loudest Place I’ve Ever Lived” award. This last element is somewhat unbelievable in the early morning, before the sun has even peaked over the mountain behind all this… whatever it is.

Over an hour later, as I write this, they’re still BOOMing, and setting off car alarms in the process. The band seems to have played all the songs they know, some of them twice, but you never know if they’re actually finished or not. Oh, nope. They’re playing again, taking the precession on the road.

Now they’ve got a pick-up truck with a giant speaker in the back, which I usually associate with ridiculously loud annoucements/advertisements that meander through the town on random days at random times.

I don’t know if the cause for this… celebration of sorts… is an anniversary of independance or a religious holiday or what(seems to be the latter). But whatever it is, they sure are doing a good job of making sure everyone is awake to observe it.

I’ve lived in Chicago and New Orleans. Chicago is also known as “The Windy City”, and New Orleans can throw a loud party like no where else.

However, San Juan del Sur beats them both in the categories of “Windiest Place Ever” and “The Loudest Place I’ve Ever Lived.”

It’s good practice to be in the moment with whatever comes, that’s for sure.

At the same time (as a REALLY loud BOOM goes off right outside our apartment) I sure am looking forward to the reported peace of Vilcabamba in Ecuador, where we’ll be in a month.

Natural Ways to Boost the Immune System

If you were to open our backpacks up as we travel in Central America, you’d probably raise an eyebrow over the amount of space given to our supplements and natural products. These are our health insurance – our way of keeping our immune systems strong while we travel. However, this is the same stuff we use at home.

One of the most important is the probiotics we take to keep our good bacteria levels healthy. We have super high quality vitamins – multi vitamins and minerals with antioxidants, CoQ10, calcium, iron, a detox formula garlic, fish oils, and a few others. There are enzymes and a Chinese herbal digestive blend.

I’ve also re-used a gelato container from a dinner party in New Orleans – it was such yummy gelato too, one of the rare times I have that kind of sugar… Anyway this hard plastic container now protects an assortment of glass bottles containing oil of oregano, Rescue Remedy, as well as essential oils of lavendar, tea tree, and rosemary.

What does all this stuff do? Why on earth are we hefting it around with us?

Well, staying healthy while traveling is so important, especially in places where most (if not all) of these natural products are simply unavailable. Plus, as we go through our natural arsenal, our bags will get lighter and create more space to bring home goodies from our trip!

If you want to know more about any of the things listed, look them up or comment and ask. Here’s a short list of three of the essentials and why we have them:

Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE) – Antiviral, anti bacterial, antifungal, used to treat all kinds of issues, and we also use it to wash our produce.

Oil of Oregano – Much of the same properties of GSE above. An essential insurance policy while traveling. Also good in homemade pasta sauce when the local market doesn’t have Italian seasoning.

Tea Tree Oil – Antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal; uses are many. I always have tea tree oil on me (not just in 3rd world countries) to keep my hands clean, put on insect bites, bee stings, etc.

Blender Goodness

I must say I love the fact that I’m in a place where I can get giant papayas, pineapples, ripe mangos,  and bananas fresh from the trees. The super low prices for these local foods are icing on the cake.

 

Breakfast... Yum!

Casey and I start off each morning with fresh fruit. At first we just cut a big papaya, each took half, and sat eating it with a spoon in the morning quiet. Now that we’re blessed with a rockin’ blender, our first meal has become more dynamic.

 

One of the great things about blending fruits and veggies is that this makes them easier to digest. It’s still a good thing to ‘chew’ your blender drink to get the enzymes from saliva, but it’s a lot easier for the body to process and absorb nutrients because the blender chews the food better than most of us do.

We usually blend half a papaya, and sometimes add other fruits. Papaya and banana, papaya and pineapple, or my new favorite, papaya and mango. Adding ice makes it cold, but waters it down a bit. Instead, we try to get the fruit the day before, cut it up and freeze it for the morning. Yum!

The other thing Casey does is green drinks. I still have a bit of a hard time getting used to them, but the amount of veggies you can drink in a cup, all pre-chewed by the blender, is pretty amazing.

One interesting mix he’s done is parsley, tomato, cucumber, peper, garlic, carrot, a little sea salt, and lettuce. If we had kale we’d use that, but it’s hard enough to get lettuce around here.

I hope this inspires you to get out your blender and be creative! Use local, seasonal produce, keep it simple, and find what you like.

Update: My new favorite blender drink – one carrot, a small beet, a little ice, filtered water, and one cup of cold pineapple green tea (not pineapple the fruit, but pineapple flavored green tea). Yum!

Post your favorite recipies by leaving a comment!